A Jeep Gladiator oil change kit includes the oil filter, the correct engine oil (usually 0W-20 full synthetic), a drain plug washer, and the tools needed to complete the job at home. Using the right kit protects your engine, extends its life, and saves you real money over dealer visits.
Why Your Jeep Gladiator Deserves the Right Oil Change Kit
You bought the Jeep Gladiator because it’s a workhorse. It hauls gear on weekends, handles rough trails, and still gets you to work on Monday without complaint. But here’s what frustrates a lot of Gladiator owners: they spend serious money on a serious truck, then either overpay a dealership for basic maintenance or they pick up the wrong oil kit and wonder why their engine doesn’t feel quite right.

I’ve been wrenching on Jeeps for years, and I can tell you this: the oil change is the single most important thing you can do for your Gladiator’s engine. Get it wrong and you’re shortening the life of a truck built to last decades. Get it right, and you’ll feel the difference every time you turn the key.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through exactly what a Jeep Gladiator oil change kit includes, which products actually work, how to do the job yourself step by step, and what mistakes to avoid. Whether you’re in Texas, Toronto, Queensland, or the English countryside if you own a Gladiator, this one’s for you.
The 3 Biggest Problems Gladiator Owners Face With Oil Changes
Problem 1: Buying the Wrong Oil Viscosity
Why it happens: The Jeep Gladiator uses the 3.6L Pentastar V6 or the 3.0L EcoDiesel V6, and each has a specific oil requirement. Many owners especially first-time Gladiator owners assume any quality 5W-30 will do the job because that’s what they used in their last vehicle.
The real issue: Jeep officially specifies 0W-20 full synthetic for the 3.6L Pentastar (2020 and newer models). Running a thicker oil might feel fine short-term, but it creates more friction during cold starts, reduces fuel efficiency, and can technically void your warranty in some regions.
The fix — step by step:
- Open your owner’s manual and locate the oil specification section (usually around page 400–450 in the digital version).
- Confirm your engine type 3.6L Pentastar or 3.0L EcoDiesel (the diesel requires 5W-40 full synthetic).
- Purchase oil that meets Stellantis MS-6395 specification for the Pentastar or MS-10850 for the EcoDiesel.
- If you’re unsure, search the part number on the Mopar website or ask your local parts store to cross-reference it.
Real-world example: A Gladiator owner in Calgary switched from dealer oil changes to DIY but grabbed 5W-30 conventional oil on sale. After two oil changes, he noticed slightly worse cold-start performance in winter.
One conversation with a mechanic and a quick manual check fixed it immediately back to 0W-20 full synthetic, and the problem disappeared.
Problem 2: Using an Incompatible Oil Filter
Why it happens: The Gladiator’s 3.6L engine uses a cartridge-style oil filter — not the old spin-on canister most people remember from previous generations of trucks. New owners often grab a spin-on filter out of habit or pick the wrong Mopar cartridge.
The real issue: An ill-fitting filter can leak, fail to seal properly, or worse allow unfiltered oil to circulate through your engine. That’s not a minor inconvenience; that’s accelerated engine wear.
The fix — step by step:
- Confirm your filter housing location it’s on the front of the engine, accessible from above on most Gladiator models.
- Purchase the correct Mopar oil filter cartridge (Part #68191349AB) or a verified OEM-equivalent brand like K&N, Bosch, or Wix.
- When installing, replace the O-ring that comes with the new cartridge filter. Never reuse the old O-ring.
- Torque the filter housing cap to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) — do not overtighten by hand.
- After your first start-up post-change, check for leaks around the filter housing before driving.
Pro Tip: Keep a torque wrench in your kit specifically for the filter housing cap. Over-tightening is one of the most common DIY mistakes and can crack the plastic cap housing, turning a $10 filter job into a $150+ repair.
Problem 3: Not Having the Right Tools Before Starting
Why it happens: People assume an oil change just needs a wrench and a drain pan. The Gladiator has a few quirks that catch DIYers off guard particularly the cartridge filter housing and the specific drain plug washer.
The real issue: Without the right tools, you either strip bolts, create a massive mess, or leave the job half-done. The Gladiator’s drain plug uses a crush washer that must be replaced every oil change. Skip this, and you risk a slow oil leak that can go unnoticed until real damage is done.
The fix — step by step:
- Before you start, assemble your full kit (detailed in the next section).
- Buy a pack of 5 or 10 crush washers so you always have one ready they’re inexpensive (under $1 each) and sold at any auto parts store.
- Use a 36mm socket for the filter housing on the 3.6L Pentastar.
- Have a proper oil drain pan with a capacity of at least 6 quarts (the Gladiator 3.6L holds 5.9 quarts with filter).
- Keep shop towels and nitrile gloves on hand oil changes are cleaner when you’re prepared.
What’s in a Complete Jeep Gladiator Oil Change Kit
A proper kit isn’t just oil and a filter. Here’s everything you need, broken down clearly.
The Essential Components
Engine Oil The 3.6L Pentastar requires 0W-20 full synthetic, and you’ll need approximately 6 quarts to be safe (the system holds 5.9 quarts with a filter change). For the 3.0L EcoDiesel, use 5W-40 full synthetic that meets MS-10850 spec.
In cold climates Canada, northern UK, or southern Australia in winter full synthetic performs significantly better during cold starts than conventional or synthetic blends.
Oil Filter Cartridge The correct filter is a cartridge insert, not a canister. The housing stays on the engine; only the paper element and O-rings are replaced. Part number 68191349AB is the Mopar OEM option. K&N, Purolator, and Wix all make verified compatible equivalents.
Drain Plug Crush Washer Often overlooked. Part number 6508180AA for most Gladiator models. This is a one-time-use aluminium washer. Replace it every single time no exceptions.
Tools You’ll Need
- 36mm socket (filter housing)
- 13mm socket or wrench (drain plug)
- Torque wrench
- Oil drain pan (at least 6-quart capacity)
- Oil filter removal tool (optional but helpful)
- Funnel
- Nitrile gloves and shop rags
Full Kit Comparison Table
| Component | OEM Mopar Option | Aftermarket Option | Approx. Cost (USD/AUD/CAD/GBP) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine Oil (6 qt, 0W-20 Full Synthetic) | Mopar Full Synthetic | Pennzoil Platinum, Mobil 1, Castrol Edge | $35–$55 / $50–$80 / $45–$70 / £28–£42 |
| Oil Filter Cartridge | Mopar #68191349AB | K&N HP-1017, Wix 57082 | $8–$15 / $12–$22 / $10–$18 / £6–£12 |
| Drain Plug Crush Washer | Mopar #6508180AA | Beck/Arnley, Dorman | $1–$3 / $1.50–$4 / $1.50–$4 / £1–£2 |
| 36mm Socket | Standard 1/2″ drive | Any quality socket set | $8–$20 / $10–$25 / $10–$22 / £6–£16 |
| Oil Drain Pan (6+ qt) | Any brand | Lumax, Fumoto, Hopkins | $12–$25 / $15–$35 / $14–$30 / £10–£20 |
| Total Kit Estimate | $65–$120 / $90–$165 / $80–$145 / £50–£90 |
Compare that to a typical dealership oil change for a Gladiator, which runs $80–$130 USD just for labour and parts and you can see why DIY pays off fast.
How to Do a Jeep Gladiator Oil Change Step by Step
This walkthrough applies to the 3.6L Pentastar V6 the most common Gladiator engine. If you have the EcoDiesel, the process is very similar but use the specs noted earlier.
Step 1: Warm Up the Engine (5 minutes)
Run the engine for 3–5 minutes before draining. Warm oil flows faster and carries more contaminants out of the engine with it. Don’t run it until it’s hot just warm.

Step 2: Safely Lift and Secure the Vehicle
Use a quality floor jack and always use jack stands. In the USA, UK, Canada, and Australia, safety regulations around vehicle lifting at home are generally a matter of personal responsibility but the principle is universal: never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use the proper Gladiator frame lift points noted in your owner’s manual.
Pro Tip: The Gladiator sits higher than most SUVs out of the box. Depending on your setup, you may not even need to lift it much many owners can access the drain plug comfortably without any jacking on a standard Gladiator ride height.

Step 3: Drain the Old Oil
- Locate the drain plug on the bottom of the oil pan passenger side, toward the rear of the engine.
- Place your drain pan directly beneath it.
- Use your 13mm socket to loosen and remove the drain plug by hand once loose.
- Let the oil drain completely give it a full 5 minutes.
- Remove and discard the old crush washer.

Step 4: Replace the Oil Filter Cartridge
- Move to the top of the engine.
- Use the 36mm socket to loosen the filter housing cap.
- Lift out the old filter cartridge and discard it responsibly. Many auto parts stores in the US, UK, Canada, and Australia accept used oil and filters for recycling always check locally.
- Install the new O-rings on the housing cap (they come with your new filter).
- Insert the new filter cartridge and thread the housing cap back on.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) use your torque wrench here.
Step 5: Reinstall the Drain Plug
- Thread the new crush washer onto the drain plug.
- Hand-tighten the plug, then torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
- Do not over-tighten you’ll deform the oil pan threads over time.
Step 6: Add Fresh Oil
- Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine (marked with an oil can icon).
- Using a funnel, pour in 5.5 quarts of the correct oil first.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 60 seconds.
- Check the oil pressure light it should go off within a few seconds.
- Shut the engine off, wait 2–3 minutes, then check the dipstick.
- Add more oil in small amounts until you reach the “full” mark.
Step 7: Check for Leaks
Run the engine again for 2–3 minutes. With gloves on, feel around the drain plug and filter housing cap. No drips means a clean job. Wipe down the area, lower the vehicle, and reset the oil life monitor in the instrument cluster.
Pro Tip: To reset the oil life monitor on most Gladiators, go to Settings > Vehicle Info > Oil Life in the Uconnect system. Hold the reset button until it reads 100%. This step is easy to forget and annoying to leave undone.
How Often Should You Change the Oil on a Jeep Gladiator?
This is one of the most searched questions about Gladiator maintenance and the answer depends on how you use your truck.
Jeep’s official recommendation for the 3.6L Pentastar with full synthetic 0W-20 is every 10,000 miles (approximately 16,000 km). However, if you’re towing regularly, off-roading in dusty conditions, or doing a lot of short-trip driving in cold weather, many mechanics recommend shortening that interval to 6,000–7,500 miles (approximately 10,000–12,000 km).
[Insert link to a verified study/government site about engine oil degradation intervals here]
The Gladiator’s oil life monitoring system does track your driving habits and will alert you when a change is actually needed, which is a smarter way to manage it than blindly following a calendar.
OEM vs. Aftermarket Oil Change Kits: Which Is Better?
A lot of Gladiator owners debate this endlessly. Here’s my honest take after years of DIY maintenance:
OEM Mopar kits are convenient, guaranteed to fit, and protect your powertrain warranty especially if your truck is still under the 5-year/60,000-mile powertrain warranty offered in the USA, or similar terms in the UK, Canada, and Australia.
Quality aftermarket kits from brands like K&N, Mobil 1, or Pentosin can be just as effective and sometimes better in specific areas (K&N filters, for example, are known for excellent filtration efficiency). The key is choosing brands with verified fitment data and API SP or ILSAC GF-6 certification on the oil.
Where aftermarket makes sense: Once your warranty is expired, aftermarket oils and filters from reputable brands are a smart, cost-effective choice. Just avoid unknown discount brands with no certification data.
Frequently Asked Questions
What oil does a Jeep Gladiator take?
The 3.6L Pentastar V6 Jeep Gladiator (2020 and newer) uses 0W-20 full synthetic motor oil meeting the Stellantis MS-6395 specification. The 3.0L EcoDiesel V6 uses 5W-40 full synthetic meeting MS-10850. Always check your specific model year’s owner’s manual to confirm, as specifications can occasionally be updated.
How much oil does a Jeep Gladiator take?
The 3.6L Pentastar V6 holds approximately 5.9 quarts (5.6 litres) with a filter change. Most owners buy 6 quarts to be safe, as you can always check the dipstick and add the final small amount as needed. The 3.0L EcoDiesel holds approximately 10.5 quarts (10 litres), so budget accordingly.
Can I use 5W-30 instead of 0W-20 in my Jeep Gladiator?
Technically the engine will run on 5W-30, but it’s not recommended by Jeep and may affect warranty coverage on newer models. The 0W-20 specification is chosen for fuel efficiency and cold-start protection.
In a genuine emergency such as being on a remote trail topping up with 5W-30 is acceptable short-term, but you should do a proper oil change with the correct spec as soon as possible.
How long does a Jeep Gladiator oil change take at home?
For someone doing it for the first time, expect 45–60 minutes. Once you’ve done it two or three times and have all your tools organized, you can complete a full Gladiator oil change in 20–30 minutes. The cartridge filter system is actually cleaner and faster than the old spin-on style once you’re used to it.
Do I need to reset the oil life monitor after an oil change?
Yes, always reset it. The oil life monitor doesn’t reset automatically if you skip this step, it’ll give you inaccurate reminders based on your previous oil. On most Gladiators with the Uconnect system, you reset it through Settings > Vehicle Info > Oil Life, then hold the OK or reset button. Consult your owner’s manual for the exact steps for your model year.
Final Takeaways: Keep Your Gladiator Running Strong
After everything we’ve covered, three things matter most:
First, use the right oil. For the 3.6L Pentastar, that’s 0W-20 full synthetic meeting Stellantis MS-6395. This isn’t optional it’s engineered specifically for your engine’s tolerances, fuel efficiency, and cold-start performance.
Second, replace both the filter cartridge and the crush washer every single time. These are cheap parts that prevent expensive problems. Never skip the washer, never reuse the O-ring.
Third, do it on schedule. Whether you follow the 10,000-mile OEM recommendation or go shorter based on how you use your truck, consistency is what keeps engines alive. The Gladiator is built to last your maintenance habits determine whether it actually does.
Getting your oil change kit right is one of the most satisfying and practical things you can do as a Gladiator owner. It saves money, builds confidence, and keeps you connected to your truck in a real way.
So what’s stopping you from doing your next Gladiator oil change yourself? Drop a comment below are you a DIY convert, or do you still take yours to the dealer? I’d love to hear your setup.

“Cars aren’t just machines. They’re freedom, memory, and a little bit of grease under your fingernails.”
I’m Marcus Thorne—though my friends just call me “Marc” (and no, I’m not related to the racing family, though I share their need for speed). I grew up in Detroit back when the city was still the beating heart of the American auto industry. My first love was a rusted-out 1967 Mustang my father and I rebuilt in our garage when I was fifteen. That project taught me that cars have souls.
After twenty years as a master mechanic and another decade writing for industry magazines, I’m here to help everyday drivers and weekend wrenchers feel confident under the hood. Whether you’re restoring a classic or just trying to keep your daily driver alive for one more winter, I’m here to help you get there.



